General Maintenance Guide

If you want to make sure that your swimming pool is clean and healthy, proper maintenance is a must. In this guide, we outline a few simple steps that should be part of your routine. This way, you can maintain a crystal-clear pool with ease and get back to relaxing! When it comes to pool care, keep in mind the three C’s of pool care: Circulation, Cleaning, and Chemistry. Your pool professional can determine the best form of care required for your specific pool. The following notes are a general guide for proper care.

Circulation:

  • Run pool pump 8-12 hours per day

  • Backwash or clean filter if pressure is above 10-15 psi

  • Clean the skimmer & pump basket

  • Keep jets facing circular and downward

Cleaning:

  • Brush walls, steps, ladders, low circulation spots daily

  • Skim the surface daily

  • Vacuum once a week or use automatic cleaner

Chemistry:

  • Test water 1-2 times per week

  • Balance pH and alkalinity

  • Maintain sanitizer levels

  • Shock bi-weekly

To keep your pool looking great, you’ll need to keep your water moving and properly filtered, keep debris and “dead spots” cleaned up, and balance your water chemistry.

The first step to keeping your pool clean and clear is to make sure your water is circulating properly.

Circulation

Pool maintenance starts with pool circulation because if your pool water isn’t moving, your pump isn’t pumping, or your filter isn’t filtering, you’re going to be fighting an uphill battle to keep your pool clean. This is because stagnant water is a breeding ground for algae growth.

There are several parts that make up your pool’s circulatory system. The skimmer, the pump, the filter, and the jets. If any one of these pieces is significantly impeded, your water quality will suffer. Here’s a short explanation of how a pool works to keep your water clean and circulating:

  1. Pump sucks water from pool through skimmer (usually a rectangular door)

  2. Water travels through pump into filter

  3. Filter cleans out particles that are making your water dirty

  4. Water is pushed back into pool through pool jets

Your pool pump is kind of like the “heart” of your swimming pool. The pump draws water through the filtration system, where it’s stripped of dirt, debris, and other impurities. From there, the clean water goes back to the pool.

Run the Pool Pump

Duration: 8-12 hours per day

In other words, the more you run your filtration system, the cleaner your water will be – and the less time you’ll have to spend scrubbing algae or balancing your water. If running your filter 24/7 isn’t realistic, aim to run your pool filter 10 to 12 hours per day. If you are in a warmer climate, you should run your pump a little more per day. This is why we suggest investing in a variable speed pool pump because they can run at a lower speed throughout the day, which saves money, energy, and makes less noise.

Backwash or Clean the Filter if Necessary

Frequency: When filter gauge reads about 10 psi higher than normal

If your pump gauge is about 10 lbs or more above the normal reading (usually 10-15 psi for a clean filter), then it may be time to backwash your filter. If you are using a cartridge filter, then you will need to clean your filter cartridge.

Clean the Skimmer Basket

Frequency: 1-2 times per week

Cleaning the skimmer and pump baskets regularly is important to the overall maintenance of your swimming pool. Clogged baskets make your pump work harder to try to cycle the water. This can decrease the life and stress the seals in your pump. Additionally, critters like frogs can get stuck in your skimmer, so you will want to make sure those are removed in a timely manner as well. We suggest cleaning your skimmer once or twice a week depending on how often you use it.

To clean the skimmer basket, simply turn off your pool pump and empty the removable basket under the skimmer lid, then replace.

Every once in a while, you should also clean out the pump basket on your pool pump. You don’t have to do this as often since the skimmer catches most of the debris.

Angle the Jets

Another easy adjustment to make is to make sure your pool jets are pointing away from your skimmer so that your water cycles in a circle. This will encourage the pool water to rotate and make it easier for your skimmer to get rid of debris. It also helps to angle the jets downward so that the bottom of the pool gets circulation as well. If there are any parts of the pool that struggle to get water, most commonly the around the steps, ladders, crevices, and corners of your pool, you can angle towards these areas too.

Cleaning

Frequency: Vacuum once a week. Brush and Skim once per day.

The next step in the trifecta of pool maintenance is cleaning which comprises brushing your pool, skimming the debris off the top, and vacuuming the pool. Manual maintenance is a normal part of pool ownership unless you own a robotic pool cleaner which will do it for you.

Brush

Scrubbing the walls with a pool brush pool prevents algae, staining, and scaling, especially around “dead areas” such as steps, ladders, crevices, and below the skimmer.

Skim

Skimming the surface of the water with a net or leaf rake removes large debris. This debris is unattractive to swimmers and can fall to the bottom of your pool where it can leave stains.

Vacuum

Vacuuming your pool is another essential part of removing debris that can reduce circulation and damage your pool. You can use a vacuum head, hose, and pole attached to your skimmer through a vacuum plate.

Chemistry

Frequency: Test 1-2 times per week. Shock Bi-Weekly.

Chemistry is another huge factor in keeping your water clean. When your water is properly balanced, you’re less likely to struggle with issues like cloudy water, green water, or buildup of harmful bacteria. That’s why a good testing kit is an essential for your pool maintenance toolkit.

Test Your Water & Balance Chemicals

For best results, test your water weekly. To keep things easy, opt for a test kit that will tell you if you need to add pool chemicals to maintain your water balance. Most pool supply stores and big-box retailers sell easy-to-use test kits or test strips that allow you to test your swimming pool water for the key chemicals. Here are the essential ranges to keep in mind:

  • pH: Ideally, you want your pool water to have a pH of around 7.5. This is important because pH levels that are too high or too low can lead to a variety of pool maintenance issues, from equipment corrosion to increased green algae growth.

  • Calcium hardness: Again, it’s all about balance here: Shoot for 200 – 400 ppm in a pool. When calcium hardness levels are too low, you risk damage to your pool’s plaster finish or vinyl liner. But if your pool’s calcium hardness is too high, you’ll be scraping away tough-to-remove calcium deposits.

  • Alkalinity: You want to aim for a total alkalinity of around 120 to 150 ppm. If it’s below this range, your pool’s pH can be affected, and your pool’s surfaces are more prone to stains. If it’s on the higher side, your water can become cloudy.

  • Chlorine: Available in sticks, granules, and tablets, chlorine breaks down harmful bacteria and sanitizes your pool water. You’ll want to keep the chlorine levels stable to ensure that your pool stays clean.

  • Phosphates: If your pool water is green and cloudy, it is possible that the phosphate levels in your pool are too high. Having too many phosphates in your pool can make algae growth more likely and makes it more difficult to maintain proper pool chemistry.

Want more info? See our Pool Water Chemistry Guide below.

Here are the ranges for different types of sanitizers:

  • Sanitizer, chlorine 1 – 3 ppm. Higher is better. This prevents algae growth.

  • Sanitizer, bromine 3-5 ppm

  • Sanitizer biguanide 30-50 ppm

  • Sanitizer mineral, chlorine backup .5 ppm

Shocking the Pool

Frequency: Shock every 1-2 weeks.

In addition to keeping your pool chemistry balanced, it’s also a good idea to shock your pool once every week or two. “Shocking” means you overload your water with sanitizer to kill off any bacteria, contaminants, and organic matter.

In general, the more you use your pool, the more often you should shock. You may also want to shock your pool after periods of heavy use or weathering in these cases:

  • After an intense storm

  • After a spill or unexpected contamination

  • After an algae breakout

Conclusion

If you follow these basic steps, you will be on your way to maintaining a crystal-clear pool and avoiding problematic algae growth. The key is establishing a routine and taking early action if you notice discoloration, cloudy water, scaling, or other signs of trouble. And if you ever find the responsibilities overwhelming, a Pool Service Professional can take care of your pool for you. For a reasonable price, they’ll visit your house every one or two weeks and take care of all the of this stuff for you!

We hope this guide has made your life just a little easier, see our related maintenance articles or use our search if you have more questions!

Additional Notes:

Here are the essential chemicals for keeping your pool clean and beautiful:

pH

This is the measure of acid and base in the pool water, and it’s important to maintain just the right balance: If the pH of your swimming pool water drifts too far toward the acid side of the scale, corrosion of pool surfaces and equipment can occur. If your pH is too far toward the base side, your pool can be at risk for scaling, deposits, and cloudy water. Ideally, you want to maintain a pH of around 7.5. You can use a chemical increaser or decreaser to adjust your pool’s levels as needed. Be sure to follow the label directions for the proper amount of the products to add based on test results and pool size.

Calcium Hardness

This is the amount of dissolved calcium in the pool water. Low calcium hardness levels can cause plaster finish etching and shorten the life of vinyl liners. High calcium levels can result in calcium deposits on the pool surfaces as well as equipment. The proper range for calcium hardness in pool water is 200- 250 parts per million (ppm) for concrete pools and 175-225 ppm for vinyl pools. Your pool professional can advise you on the best method for treating your pool if you encounter high calcium hardness.

Total Alkalinity

To ensure that your swimming pool’s pH remains stable, you should maintain a total alkalinity of 120-150 ppm. Low total alkalinity can not only result in pH bounce and fluctuations, but it can also encourage corrosion and staining. High total alkalinity can also cause the pH to fluctuate and may contribute to cloudy water and scaling. To lower total alkalinity, follow the directions from your pool professional. To raise total alkalinity, an alkalinity booster is recommended.

Metals

The most common types of metals that appear in pool water are copper, iron, and manganese. The presence of these metals can stain your pool’s surfaces and discolor your swimming pool water. If metals are present in your pool, use a stain and scale remover on a regular basis. You should also try to determine the source of the metals –your pool professional can probably help you identify some likely culprits.

TestRangepH7.2 - 7.6Total Alkalinity120 - 150ppmCalcium Hardness200 - 250ppm (Concrete Pools)Calcium Hardness175 - 225ppm (Vinyl Pools)Free Chlorine1 - 3ppmFree Bromine3 - 5ppmMetals: Copper0ppmMetals: Iron0ppm

Chlorine

A true workhorse of pool maintenance, this pool cleaner chemical breaks down bacteria and sanitizes your pool water. Stabilized chlorine products are protected from sunlight degradation and are an ideal means to keep your pool clear and clean. Most stabilized chlorine products are available in a variety of forms, including chlorinating tablets, skimmer sticks, and granules. Your pool professional can determine the best form and type of sanitization program for your particular needs. A free chlorine level of 1-3 ppm should be maintained in the pool at all times.

Bromine

Bromine, which packs the same bacteria-killing punch as chlorine, performs better in hot water. If you’ve got a pool or a spa, or if your pool water gets exceptionally hot, consider this chlorine alternative to keep your pool clear and clean. To utilize bromine effectively, consider installing an automatic brominator.

Shock Treatments

Learning how to shock your pool on a regular basis is an important part of keeping the pool water clear and clean. Swimmers and the environment add waste and debris to the pool that must be eliminated in order to prevent problems such as algae and cloudy water.

Algaecide

Preventing algae is the key to an enjoyable pool. Algaecides act as a backup to your normal sanitization program and prevent algae from starting and growing in the pool. Algaecide should be added after every shock treatment.

Stabilizer

Available in liquid or powdered form, pool stabilizer helps preserve the chlorine levels in your pool protect them from the breakdown effects of sunlight. When your stabilizer level is low, you'll use a lot more chlorine. When it's high, you may need to dilute your pool water to bring it back into the ideal 40 to 100 PPM range.

Pool water stabilizer is also known as conditioner, CYA, or cyanuric acid.

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS)

This term is a catch-all that includes everything from naturally occurring minerals to debris and dust to organ buildup that occurs from everyday use. As your swimming pool water evaporates, leaving behind concentrated, hard-to-remove TDS deposits – which, in turn, can make pool chemicals less effective and create stains. If you have 3000 PPM or more of TDS, you may need to drain some water and add fresh water.

Other Types of Chemicals:

What is Free Chlorine?

Free chlorine is tested to determine the proper chlorine levels in pool water. It is the amount of chlorine that is still available to sanitize your water. Free chlorine is the chlorinated water that has not interacted with any contaminants.

What is Combined Chlorine?

Combined chlorine is a by-product that occurs when free chlorine oxidizes contaminants such as nitrogen and ammonia. Available chlorine is used up as it combines with contaminants, resulting in combined chlorine.

What is Total Chlorine?

Total Chlorine, also known as TC, is the sum of free chlorine and combined chlorine in your pool water. Chlorine tests often test for total chlorine because it’s easier to test for than free chlorine or combined chlorine.

What is Muriatic Acid?

Muriatic acid is a diluted solution of hydrochloric acid. You can buy it at most home improvement stores and pool stores. You can use muriatic acid to lower your pool pH, clean cartridge filters, and take rust stains off your pool surfaces.

What is Cyanuric Acid?

Cyanuric Acid is another name for chlorine stabilizer which is a chemical that protects chlorine in the pool from the sun’s UV rays. This results in longer lasting chlorine.

How to shock your pool

Shocking your pool isn’t terribly complicated. If you can test and balance your water chemistry, you can shock your pool. Although the shock process can vary a bit, you’ll follow a few basic steps:

  1. Test the water. To ensure that your shock treatments work as expected, you’ll want to break out the testing kit and make sure that your pool water is balanced.

  2. Brush and vacuum your pool. This is especially important if your pool is full of dirt, debris, and larger contaminants (for example, if you’re shocking your pool after a storm). You should also remove any remaining equipment and toys from the pool.

  3. Measure the right amount of pool shock. Read the instructions to find out how much shock you need to use. The amount needed will vary depending on the size of your pool and the reason you’re shocking your pool in the first place. For example, if you’re battling an outbreak of black algae or pink algae, you’ll need to use two or three times the amount you’d need for a routine cleaning.

  4. Add the shock treatment to your pool. Remember that if you’re using calcium hypochloride, you’ll need to pre-dissolve the pool shock in a bucket of water before you add it to your swimming pool. If you’re using dichloroisocyanuric acid (“dichlor”) or potassium peroxymonosufate (MPS) you can add them directly to your water without pre-dissolving.

  5. Run your filter. Running your swimming pool filter will help distribute the shock evenly.

  6. Wait the appropriate amount of time before swimming. If you’re using a chlorine-based shock treatment, you’ll need to wait 12 to 24 hours before swimming. If you’re using chlorine free MPS, you should wait at least 15 minutes.

Safety first!

Pool shock treatments can irritate your skin and eyes, so take these safety precautions when using them:

  • Don’t allow kids or pets near the pool when the shock chemicals are in use.

  • If you’re using a chlorine-based pool shock, be sure to wait 12 to 24 hours before allowing anyone into the pool again.

  • Avoid shocking your pool when it’s windy out. A strong breeze can blow the chemicals back at you instead of into the pool.

  • Be sure to read and follow all the instructions on your package of pool shock.

  • Wear protective gear – including goggles and gloves -- when working with pool shock.

  • Wash your hands immediately after shocking your pool.

  • Store and handle pool shock carefully. Remember that some types of pool shock are extremely flammable – and they can even explode if handled carelessly.

  • Do not mix pool shock with other chemicals (or other types of pool shock). We can’t stress this enough. Mixing chemicals – especially pool shock – is super-dangerous.